The Toilet
from
The Fashionable Dancer's Casket, Charles
Durang,
The first thing for a lady to consider, is simplicity of attire, whether the material be cheap or costly-such simplicity as produces the
finest effect with the least apparent labor and the smallest number of articles.
The next thing to be considered is elegance of make and propriety of colors. Fashion in general will determine the former; but the
latter must be left to individual taste.
In the selection of colors a lady must consider her figure and her complexion. If slender and sylph-like, white or very light colors are
generally supposed to be suitable; but if inclined to embonpoint, they should be avoided, as they have the reputation of apparently
adding to the bulk of the wearer.
Pale colors, such as pink, salmon, light blue, maize, apple green, and white are most in vogue among the blondes, as being thought
to harmonize with their complexions. Brilliant colors are more generally selected by the brunettes, for a similar reason.
Harmony of dress involves the idea of contrast. A pale girl looks more wan, and a brunette looks less dark, contrasted with strong
colors. But as the blonde and the brunette are both beautiful in themselves, when the contour of the countenance and figure is
good, a beautiful young girl, blonde or brunette, may without fear adopt either style, or both, for a change; for a uniform mode of
dressing, assumes at last the character of mannerism and formality-a character which is incompatible with the highest excellence
in any of the fine arts.
The material of the dress should be of the lightest description-the more gossamere-like the better.
A rich satin slip should always have either crape or net over it; and it is the generally received opinion, that the less trimming
the dress has the better. On this point, however, individual taste may sometimes successfully make a deviation from the general rule.
Ladies, also, should remember that gentlemen look more to the effect of dress, in setting off the figure and countenance of a lady,
than its cost. Very few gentlemen have any idea of the value of ladies' dresses. This is a subject for female criticism. Beauty of
person and elegance of manners in woman will always command more admiration from the opposite sex than beauty, elegance,
or the various fashionable costumes of the day.
It is the fashion at present to wear long dresses; but in having the dresses thus made, orders should be given not to have them so
long as to touch the ground; for in that case they are apt to be torn before half the evening is over. It is almost impossible to thread
the mazes of the dance without such an accident, if the dress should sweep the floor, except with a careful and accomplished cavalier.
The head-dress should be in unison with the robe, though ladies who have a profusion of beautiful hair require little or no artificial
ornament; a simple flower is all that is necessary. To those who are less gifted in this respect wreaths are generally thought becoming.
Tall ladies should avoid wearing anything across the head, as that adds to the apparent height. A "chaplet" or a "drooping
wreath" would, therefore, be preferable. White satin shoes are worn with light colored dresses; and black or bronze with dark ones.
The gloves should fit to a nicety.
Mourning in any stage-full mourning or half mourning-has always a sombre appearance, and is, therefore, unbecoming in a ballroom;
but since the custom of decorating it with scarlet has come into vogue, an air of cheerfulness has been imparted to its melancholy
appearance.
A black satin dress looks best when covered with net, tarlatan, or crape-the latter only to be worn in mourning.
Gentlemen's ball attire varies but little, as they generally appear in black. This is a thing ad libitum . The black neckerchief at present
prevails; with this the white waistcoats contrasts best, and is generally adopted. But when white or fancy neckerchiefs are worn,
black or dark waistcoats prevail. Enamelled or patent leather boots are appropriate. Shoes, or pumps, have gone out, excepting
at State balls, where court dresses are worn. White or lemon-colored gloves and embroidered shirts are fashionable.